Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley Champagne 1999
Winemaker's Notes
The Roederer Estate Brut is crisp and elegant with complex pear, spice and hazelnut flavors. It is fresh and lightly fruity with great finesse and depth of flavor.
Winemaking
Roederer's winemaking style is based on two elements: complete ownership of its vineyards and the addition of oak-aged reserve wines to each year's blend or cuvée. All the grapes for the wines are grown on the Estate. Oak-aged wines from the Estate's reserve cellars are added to the blend, creating a multi-vintage cuvée in the traditional Roederer style. Only the cuvée (first pressing of 120 gallons/ton) is used; no premiere or deuxieme taille. The fermentation takes place in high-grade stainless steel tanks at 65 degrees Fahrenheit. None to minimal malolactic fermentation is used in order to ensure that the wines age well and retain the fresh, somewhat austere style that is one of the characteristics of Roederer wines.
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba 2001
Chateau Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 1986
Winemaker's Notes
After stumbling over some wines I thought were high class Bordeaux, I nailed this wine in one of the blind tastings for this article. In most tastings where a great Bordeaux is inserted with California Cabernets, the Bordeaux comes across as drier, more austere, and not nearly as rich and concentrated (California wines are inevitably fruitier and more massive). To put it mildly, the 1986 Mouton-Rothschild held its own (and then some), in a flight that included the Caymus Special Selection, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23, Dunn Howell Mountain, and Joseph Phelps Eisele Vineyard.
Review
Good medium ruby. Currant, currant leaf, cedar and dusty oak on the nose. Tightly wound and classic, with fabulous acids contributing to its powerful spine. Wonderfully pure and intense, with great verve and grip. But still quite locked up, and hiding its density. Finishes firmly tannic and extremely long. I remember mistaking the '86 Mouton for such international stars as Sassicaia in the early '90s, when it showed greater sweetness, but this wine has been quite shut down for the past several years. The '86 and the '82 appear clearly to be the two greatest vintages for Mouton since the 1959.
Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 1959
Conterno Giacomo Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1999